Kavinga Safaris bids farewell to another incredible season in the Zambezi Valley and we thank all of you who have supported us over the last 3 years.  It is not always easy running a mobile-tented camp but, after the fantastic comments we have had this year and the awesome sightings that the animals have provided for us, we know that it has all been worth it and we look forward to seeing you in 2011.

Our last few safaris were certainly memorable ones – lion killing 2 buffalo bulls in Chitake, wilddog chasing and killing baboons near Ndungu, watching buffalo chase lions and tracking Rhino in the Matusadona are but a few of the highlights of our last month’s safaris. This year’s sightings at the River Camp and Chitake have left us with lasting memories and some amazing moments caught on camera. It is now time to reflect and realise how fortunate we are to have such a wonderful wilderness in Mana Pools and it is the responsibility of all of us to look after our unique and diminishing wildlife areas.

Kavinga Safaris would also like to send their condolences to the Evershed family.   Peter Evershed was killed by lions in Chitake in October and, although we did not know the family, our many years spent in Chitake seem to bond us all.  Those of you who frequent the place will know what we mean.  It was a terrible tragedy and an unfortunate incident. In this age of such advanced communications technology, it is sad that the reporting of this incident has been fraught with misinformation.  If you would like to know the true details of what happened we would be happy to forward you an account.

On a lighter note we find that allowing our guests to write stories of their experience with Kavinga allows you to get a better feel for some of the spectacular moments they have encountered on safari and it also makes our job much easier!  Thank you to Warwick for his account of his safari in October.

“It often takes some serious time in some serious Zambezi bush to put your life into perspective.  We spend time in Kariba, often on a houseboat or at a lodge, and it is always the same – you are here – the game is there.  Whilst it is always a great experience to be in that situation, Chitake Spring offers a truly unique opportunity to immerse yourself in the harsh reality that exists in nature in its rawest form.  Anyone who has seen “The Lion King” will remember that opening scene with the big orange African sun rising above the horizon, and those guinea fowl clucking across the screen.  To the steady beat of the harmony, we are introduced to more and more game, like introducing characters in a book.  Such is the case upon arriving at camp in the middle of the Zambezi Valley.

Chitake is a fresh water spring, which provides the key survival element that all creatures need and that is a constant water source.  It is the only supply of water for approximately 20 km, lying midway between the great Zambezi River and the escarpment.  If this was a Nat Geo programme and we wanted to sensationalise the series, it would be aptly referred to as “The Killing Zone”.  In late October it is the only water around for miles and as such all types of game are forced to the spring to drink and lying in wait is a barrage of predators.  I said earlier it was like being introduced to characters.  First we met the entertainment reps of the Valley, the baboons, along with their soul mates the impala and warthog.  Amazingly we were introduced to the resident pride of lion on our first walk.  Chitake is all about soaking up nature and all she has to offer, it is about walking through the arid, dry bush and coming across lion in a tree.  It is about learning some of the signs that the bush affords us, like the baboon who constantly bark out if there is a lion present and looking up to see circling vultures indicating a kill is near.

At night the hearing sensory kicks in, listening to the competing roar of lions and the territorial rasp of a leopard coming down to the spring for an evening drink.  On the one night seated around the table, after foraging on the most amazing meal prepared on an open fire by the camp staff, we heard the unmistakable bellow of a buffalo, evidently in pain.  It was a full moon, Clyde grabbed his spotlight, beckoned for Andy, our guide to get the rifle and just behind the camp we came across them, six lion including two males had taken down a large male buffalo (or Dagga Boy) and he was on his last legs.  Through the spot light the stare of a male lion is quite something to behold, and you realise the immense power of the King of the Beasts.  When you have had a long hot day in the Valley you always sleep well at night but, when you first lie down, your head is racing with adrenalin of what you have witnessed that day, still the sounds of the night continue, and there is just a piece of canvas tent between you and the circle of life.

Dawn breaks, Lion King style and we hurriedly strap on our boots and head out to see what remains of last night’s activity.  The males have gone but a few females still lie around the carcass, eagerly guarding it from ensuing vultures.  The reason we always visit Chitake with Kavinga Safaris is that they have an amazing team.  A professional guide who is extremely knowledgeable on all critters who reside in the Valley and he is well armed with a supersonic full stop for charging lion or buffalo.  Clyde Elgar, with long flowing locks, also has a vast knowledge on the bush, yet his forte is his camera work.  He is always in pursuit of that perfect photo or sequence, and his energy is addictive.  Then there is Rod Huck, the wise man of the trio, who quietly sneaks off whilst you are watching a kill, and scarpers back to the camp to ensure all is perfect for when you return.  Having no pool, limited water etc. you are always met back at camp after a long walk, with a frozen hand towel, which you crack and drape over your neck.  Trust me, it’s refreshing that, followed by a couple of bitterly cold Amstel, tends to hit the spot.

Picture the scene:  Mufasa sits young Simba down and explains to him that all creatures exist in balance and that one day he will die and become a part of the Circle of Life.  After seeing the lion kill in the early morning sun, Murray was looking down into the gorge near the spring and saw a dove come to rest.  “Well at least nothing eats them” he calmly said.  No sooner had he said that when a Tawny Eagle swooped down and killed it, leaving a puff of grey and white feathers.  It’s the killing zone for everything.

The days are always eventful, but we commented this trip that we should sleep during the afternoon so as to take in all of the action at night.  After dinner we would take our chairs and sit by the spring and see what came along.  Every night a Jungle Book style column of elephant would quietly stroll past.  On one occasion we were particularly close to a cow and calf drinking near us, it was quite a sight to look up at that massive body silhouetted in the moonlight.  On the same evening, we all went dead silent as we watched a lioness quietly walk in front of us, we paced it out the next day and she was seven metres from us.  I remember looking back and seeing Andy with the rifle cocked and ready.

When you spend time in the bush with no iPods, no TV, no cell phones and no internet you realise the reality of the Circle of Life and that we are all a part of its natural structure.”

Thank you to Gerrit, Nigel and Warwick for their contribution of photos.  We would also like to thank Jenny and Karl of Rhino Safari Camp for their hospitality whilst in their camp – we will certainly be back.  Just because the rains have come, that does not mean we won’t be in the Valley.  Kavinga will update you after Christmas on all the amazing things we will see over the holidays.  From Rod and Lou, Clyde and Leah and Andrew we wish you all happy and safe holidays.

Welcome All!

Kavinga is giving you just a brief account of what’s been happening in the Zambezi Valley, as we’re leaving it to one of our guests to describe her experience with us.

With the inland pans drying up, vast numbers of game are making their way to the Zambezi River and herds of buffalo, as well as eland, kudu, impala and warthog are regular sightings on the floodplain.

The acacia albidas are currently in full bloom, bringing elephants to our camp throughout the day.

There have been excellent sightings of the wild dogs, even from the camp we watched them on the hunt.  Whilst running with the pack, we watched them kill a small baboon and an impala within 10 minutes and then another baboon the next morning.

The lions have been rather elusive but Andy was able to track them down on several occasions.  They seem to enjoy spending their days in the vitaveria grass near the banks of the river – perhaps it is cooler there.  However, they did manage to rouse themselves and attempt a buffalo kill behind camp.

The fishing has certainly been exciting.  Jim will remember for many years his first attempt at bream fishing – with 9lb line and a sinker and hook, his first cast hooked into a monster that kept him busy for the next 2.5 hours!  When he at last managed to land his catch, it was certainly no bream but a 40lb plus Vundu that he had hooked in the whisker. After taking a few pictures it was time to release this magnificent river beast back to its watery home.

Annabelle, wrote about the experience she had whilst staying with us:

“You know you’re in the thick of the African bush when your sleep is disturbed by the midnight distant roar of lion. I drifted off to sleep in my tent, next to the Chitake River, listening to the birds whistling their final chirping. Just after midnight into my dreaming seeped a lion’s roar, somewhere above camp in the arid bush. You don’t get much more African bush than that.

My six night safari with Kavinga was all about that…..being surrounded by the mannerisms of the African bush in every possible way.

At Chitake, the camp was next to a spring, where baboon and elephant would regularly wander down for water. In the distance I’d see buffalo, also seeking water to ease the effects of the hot dry climate. It was powerful on the mind and eye, to see the sun setting against the Zambezi escarpment in the evening, leaving the wildlife as mere silhouettes. During dinner, under the starlit sky, the steady sound of elephants carefully and slowly plodding down the river, just metres from our table, could be heard. The sounds of the bush at night, whether it be the creak of a branch or an animal’s footstep, are superbly amplified when the ability to see the action is minimized. It was both thrilling and humbling to wake up in the morning knowing we had minimal control over what our day would involve.

The game walk etiquette was learnt quickly; stick together, but be sure not to rush. Keep voices quiet, but feel free to ask questions and discuss the quirky bush details like the termite mounds and varying sounds. During our early morning walks an attentive eye would let us notice footprints in a certain line, the odd patch of fur or feathers, all providing clues to the previous night’s action in the bush. On one such walk we were provided the thrill of seeing a herd of buffalo come down the banks into the riverbed. The dust and noise was as thrilling as the beasts themselves.

During the day there were sightings of impala and eland…..birds in the baobab trees and lion would gracefully scale the trees as the air cooled.

After two nights at Chitake it was time to move to Mucheni at Mana Pools.

What had been the base at Chitake, including every homely necessity from hot showers and basins to a permanently stocked drinks area and spacious comfortable tents, was transformed back to its original state in a matter of half a day – a bare patch of land with only memories left behind.

Driving the dusty road to Mana Pools took just over an hour, and provided an introduction of anticipation and excitement. The combination of colours and bush changed, as did the wildlife.

Baobab trees were swapped for the Acacia Albida forests. The Zambian escarpment provided a new dramatic back drop and the watering holes of the Chitake river were replaced with the hippo and crocodile filled mighty Zambezi River. Zebra and waterbuck were added to the mix. The yellow billed kite swooped the sky, looking for a generous helping of leftover picnic treats.

I couldn’t wipe the smile off my face when I was there. I watched many hippo heads bobbing up and down and suggesting a challenge for any daring human. The odd bull elephant strolling into camp just metres away from our tents.  Seeing a pack of wild dog relaxing in the shade was magic, their painted coats are just so varying. Baboons and monkeys going about their cheeky ways, keeping a watchful eye on both human and animal form amongst their communal grooming sessions.

The beauty of Kavinga was that the bush in its rawness and complexity was never escaped. So the choice to either sit at camp or go on game drives and walks were both memorable experiences. The hospitality of the entire Kavinga team was seamless; cool drinks when the mouth was dry, fire baked bread when the tummy rumbled and a beautiful three course evening meal, all enjoyed alongside hot showers and comfortable sleeping.

As the sun went down, the fire crackled beside the river and the Southern Cross joined the stars, each evening a sprinkling from heaven…….and as the hippo snorted goodnight and the lions roared, the excitement of the following day would build.…..”

Thanks to Gordon Wilson for the picture of the lovebirds and Auntie Peng for the pictures of Jim and his vundu.

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